![]() For getting the best results, we would recommend You’ll find that you will need a few things before you set out on to create your amazing HDR image. 1 Second Exposure 1/2 Second Exposure 1/4 Second Exposure 1/8 Second Exposure 1/13th of a second exposure – (base image) 1/30th of a second exposure 1/60th of a second exposure 1/125th of a second exposure 1/200th of a second exposure The final Result with all 9 images merged together as an HDR The Final Merged Image – all 9 images merged to a single HDRĪs you see the range of tones and colours in the HDR image is much better than any of the other 9 images, also the colours are more dynamic and crisper. ISO 2500, f2.8 and using a Nikon D5 DSLR with a 16mm fisheye lens. They were taken from the 37 th floor of Heron Tower in London, E1 in August 2017 between 23:58:14 and 23:58:16 (2 seconds). One was at taken at a normal exposure level and then 4 over exposed and four under exposed. This allows for a richer tonal range, punchier colours and brighter, better defined images.Īs an example, the following images have been taken as an 9 exposure set, ready for HDR processing. This is quite technical, but can increase the dynamic range of your cameras sensor substantially. This will produce a final result that combines all the dynamic range from all of the images. Once the images have been captured, they can then be combined using specialist HDR software. The process of getting these images normally works best if the camera is on a tripod and is able to be kept still. The process of producing an HDR image starts with the photographer taking a series of images that are bracketed (photos of the same subject taken with different shutter speed combinations producing a series of images with different brightness’s (or luminosities)). If we were to consider situations where our pupils open and close for varying degrees of brightness, our eyes can see a range of nearly 24 f-stops. The human eye can actually perceive a greater dynamic range than is ordinarily possible with a camera. An image that uses the HDR technique effectively increases this range, and supplies more data for the image to use. The complicated reason for using HDR is that the sensor in your camera (the bit that sees the light in your photos) has limitations as to its range of sensitivity to the range of black and white (and the gradients in between) that it can see (sense). It’s a little more involved than that, but not a great deal more - that’s the basics of it. What is an HDR image and why is it better than a normal photo?Īs a starting point, an HDR photo is just two or more images of the same scene taken at various exposure levels which are combined with specialist software to achieve a better final result. Some people will be a bit confused by the term HDR, it stands for High Dynamic Range (HDR) and can transform your photos and take them to new heights. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart.Merging Photos to create High Dynamic Range results …Create amazing HDR images ![]() Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support. You can also make a donation here if you would like. Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. Visit Dustin’s Amazon Storefront and see his favorite gear Peak Design Leash Strap: Peak Design Store | B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UKīenQ SW271 4K Photo Editing Monitor – B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UKĪdobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year SubscriptionĪlien Skin Exposure X4 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything) Purchase the FUJIFilm X-T3 B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay Kamlan 28mm f/1.4: Sainsonic Worldwide | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Ebay Technical Info | Fuji X-T3 + Kamlan 28mm F1.4 | #photodujour #dustinabbott #photography #fuji #xt3 #kamlan #1428 Talk about vintage glass…and shot with a modern lens with a vintage feel. Here’s one of the images from the combination, and I’ve used my vintage Kodak bellows camera as a subject. When I started reviewing the Fuji X-T3, I had to have my buddies at Kamlan send me one in a Fuji mount to use there. I use it all the time for video work on my channel and as a compact yet competent option for stills. It’s a beautifully made, compact all manual prime lens, but it has a lot of optical chops. My favorite budget lens in recent years has been the Kamlan 28mm F1.4 for APS-C mirrorless. I review a lot of really expensive gear, but occasionally I review some of the inexpensive options out there. © 2018 Thousand Word Images by Dustin Abbott
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